Becoming a Pro in India

Yesterday (Saturday) some friends and I decided to get out and explore. It's also my friend's 21st birthday today, so we decided to go out to dinner since we will be on an overnight train to Udaipur tonight.

What struck me the most about yesterday was how integrated and comfortable I felt.

The girls and me (minus Priyanka who took the picture) on the platform before entering the mosque.

We decided to venture out to Old Delhi again to visit Jama Masjid, the largest mosque in India.

A month ago, the idea of going to Old Delhi was a trek - two different Metro lines and then navigating the craziness of the area. Now, it was no sweat. The jostling and pushing to make it on to the metro was practically normal.

We then walked out to the main street, and because we didn't know exactly where the mosque was, we decided to take rickshaws. I am very conflicted on my feelings towards rickshaw walas, but I do know for sure that white-tax is in full swing, so I have no problem negotiating-down a price. Sarah decided to take the lead on this particular negotiation and was awesome.

She asked how much to Jama Masjid, and the wala said "100 Rupees." (outrageous)

"Bahoot Bahoot! [too much!] 40 Rupees."

The wala replied "No. 50 madam, Indian price." Ha!

"We live here, that is not Indian price. 40 Rupees."

"Ok ok [with the added Indian head shake/nod]."

So, we then got on the rickshaws and went for a ride through the crowded streets of Old Delhi.

It was quite the ride including going down some steps and riding through a crowed market (which was kinda awkward).

Part of the market leading up to the mosque. See the Red Fort in the background?

As we waited for one of our friends to join us, we hung out on the steps to the mosque. There, little girls begged for food and money. Weeks ago I would have really struggled with what to do as they were tapping or pulling on my arms. Now though, we calmly said, "Nahee Nahee" (no no), and they eventually went away for a bit (and returned relentlessly).

They were pretty well off little beggars. They were getting plenty of free food from the stands and the leader of their little pack, who also was the smallest, had a huge wad of cash hidden away under her kurta.

There was a tourist woman sitting on the steps waiting for the evening prayer to be over and was shaking her head at the girls. In the Western world, a shake of the head means "no." But in India, a shake means "yes." Julia and I went over to her to give her some advice, and it turns out that she was a  very nice French woman here on vacation. We had a quick covo after shooing the girls away, and then went back to our friends.

The wall of the Jama Masjid

Once prayer was over, we removed our shoes to go into the mosque. However there was another Indian scheme to get money from "tourists." 300 Rupees for anyone who had a cell phone or a camera. Now, there are more cell phones in India than toilets (fact), so every Indian going into the mosque most likely had a cell phone, but no Indian was stopped. However, all white/foreigners were stopped for a bag check and forced to buy a ticket.

This seemed absolutely ridiculous to us, so we schemed right back. We split up the group, and half of us went in at a time and the other half watched the stuff. Before I went in, the "guards" didn't believe me that I didn't have anything. I showed them I had no bag, so where would I have a phone? He made me promise that I was telling the truth, and then I was allowed in.

It was quite cool. Very big, but also looked a lot like the Red Fort. The most amazing part of it was thinking that this marble and sandstone has been here since 1656. We walked barefoot around for a while (trying to avoid the great amounts of bird poop everywhere), and then went back out.

I must have looked like an authority of the place because as we were waiting for the other half of our group a British woman came up to me to ask my advice about the price to get in. She also wasn't dressed appropriately (her arms were showing) so she was forced to put a hospital gown type thing on to cover up (haha).

The buildings of the city surrounding the mosque

Once we were done looking around. We decided to walk though the market and the crowded city streets back to the Metro station. On our way back we saw a white woman alone, looking a bit confused and holding an India guide book. I called out to her to see if she needed help.

We made it back to the Metro station with no problems and hopped on. I had to go to Lajpat Nagar to pick up my new spectacles (as they call them here, see the pic to the right) and also some more hand sanitizer before the trip to Udaipur, so I stayed on the Metro a bit longer. I ran my errands and then an hour later navigated to Khan Market to meet up with the girls for the birthday dinner.

It was an easy and fun day. A month ago I probably looked as overwhelmed as the woman on the street with the guide book, and now I casually walk down the streets and can offer help to other people! Its amazing what has happened in only a month.

I am loving India.